Monday, September 27, 2010

Southern Migration

I had been wondering about the cliff that looms over a sweeping turn on the western side of the Kancamagus Highway. It seemed high, remote and impossible looking. Searching online I found a route that was something I could handle and convinced Tony it was something we should do. Southern Migration heads up the center of the right lobe of the cliff (below). The first pitch is 5.9 but there is a 5.6 alternative. I chose that and soon realized it is more likely a 5.7+ and the hardest thing I have led in years. I even stopped at a double bolt station 30 feet below the one I was aiming for. Whoops

The third pitch is billed as a 5.7 and it is a 5.7 with some fun climbing and hand holds right where you want them. Tony led. He wanted it and I wasn't sure I could do it justice after that first pitch.

The leaves that were just starting to turn last week are peaking this weekend. Mt. Osceola and Greeley Ponds (above) and Kancamagus pass.

Be warned the "smooth slabs" are really smooth and the slab climbing is steep. Somebody said 5.7 on pitch 4, but what they really meant was 5.9.

I think there are lots of first ascents on the left side of the cliff if you want them.


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